my favorite drink is synthetic oil

CHRISTOPHER MCKITTERICK

1964 LINCOLN RESTORATION:
    TIPS & FAQ


I have been corresponding with readers of this website for a long time, responding to questions about how I did things or just generally offering tips. I have been meaning FOR A LONG TIME to post those Q&As, but, you know how it goes -- job, life, and so on. But here it is, long-promised, a whole lotta Q&As plus some general tips for restoring your 1961-1967 Lincoln Continental! Most of it is in Q (question) and A (my response) format.

I hope you find this useful. Please drop me a note if I have something wrong, or if you have some suggestions for what I should add. And as always, drop me your questions -- I'll try to respond in a reasonable time.

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Q
My Lincoln is having a few issues, making a squeal that'll keep ALL the neighbors up. Pretty sure its just the timing belt.
A
First of all, a warning: REPLACE YOUR STOCK TIMING GEAR! It's plastic, and will rot and break and ruin your engine! Buy a new, steel timing set. That said, an answer: Lincoln uses a big timing chain, so I bet it's either a belt or your power-steering unit. All the power-steering units of that era make a little noise at the limits of the steering, and they all wear out over time.


Q
What kind of carbs or fuel system did you run on yours?
A
Mine uses Rochester 2-Jets. The stock mechanical pump won't feed them, though, so I went with a high-quality electric pump and pressure regulator. I picked the Rochester 2-Jets for two reasons: They're much more available than most (parts, rebuilding), and they're much cheaper to buy and service. Plus, they have a long track record and lots of aftermarket support. Strombergs are more popular among the rodding crowd for their nostalgia, and Holleys are popular because they're Holleys. A matter of personal taste.


Q
Recently, my trunk "snapped" when I was opening it, and the tensioner bars don't seem to be working. There is absolutely no spring when I turn the key - I have to manually lift the trunk to open it, and have to keep holding it up while digging for whatever in the trunk.... Do you just remove the bolts on both hinges, and lift the trunk lid right off? Is it easy to reset those tension rods?
A
Huh, I hadn't heard of that as being an issue before. I wonder if one (or both) of the tensioners popped loose, or if they rusted and broke? If they just came out of position, that shouldn't be tough. If they broke, I'm assuming it's the mount(s) that broke, not the rods themselves.

I recommend getting an owner's manual to see how to remove the trunk -- it's not tough, but it is a bit tricky. They're always available on eBay or via that site I listed on my web page.


Q
The only thing that it really needs for now is new weather stripping. Where would I purchase these?
A
Check out the parts-supply links on my website -- they're not cheap, but less costly if you can reuse the molded ends.


Q
I am concerned with the hydraulics and relays for the convertible top. Where would I purchase new or rebuilt ones?
A
Same sources; rebuilding is about the same as buying already-rebuilt ones. Not cheap! Be sure to check the compartment for rust -- leaked hydraulic fluid absorbs water.


Q
The car has an intermittent problem with the rear passenger window when opening the door, sometimes it doesn't crack or go up/down when using the power switch. What part do I need to fix?
A
Hmmm� you'll have to search for the electrical short from the switch to the motor.


Q
The owner of the car has rebuilt the engine and tranny many years ago, and has mostly garage the car. Only thing he's doing now is rebuilding the power steering (new seals and is has sent out the power steering for overhaul using an original Ford rebuild kit) Is there anything I should be aware of besides what I've stated?
A
Good to have that overhauled, because the power steering unit usually leaks. If it's an old engine/transmission rebuild, you'll probably have leaks. Don't be too concerned about that, but make sure the fluid levels stay full; it's typical to leak a quart of oil per 500 miles of driving with dry seals, so watch the levels! Otherwise, just check all the normal wear items: hoses, electrics, wheel bearings, suspension joints, etc.


Q
How difficult is the leather to restore?
A
your best bet is to buy the seat covering from the REAR of another car with the same color interior; all the fronts will be no better. Myself, I have the leather but am not installing it because I actually drive the car and don't want to damage the replacement material until / if I end up making it a show car.


Q
Did you have problems with the radio?
A
Radio is fine in mine, though the antenna cable cracked. I replaced mine with a good used unit from a parts car.


Q
What vendors did you use for tires? Does anyone make a good White Wall anymore?
A
I just bought good narrow white-wall radials from a tire dealer, again because I drive the car. There aren't many wide-whites out there that are radials, and they handle much better than poly tires.


Q
We have been perplexed by the vacuum system when we tried to replace the old, cracked hoses; the shop manual does not give a detailed enough description of the hoses and where they all go (i.e. fire wall to reservoir to intake and all places in between)...
A
I have the original and aftermarket manuals, and neither is much help. My suggestion is to NOT remove any hose without closely labeling where it goes, to which T, to which connector, etc. It's like spaghetti! Then replace them one by one, so they don't get mixed up.


Q
I love your car and want one too. I was just wondering where I should start. I'm looking for a 1964 Continental convertible. Are they very rare?
A
They are regularly available, with your best bet being on eBay. The convertibles cost about twice what a sedan costs, and you should make sure that the hydraulics area isn't all rusted out (leaky hydraulics absorb water...). For a convertible, expect to pay in this range, from restorable beater to near-perfect restored:

$3,825 - $25,600 (NADA info, not really accurate for collectors) or $5,800 - $29,000 (Old Cars Price Guide, most accurate for collectors).


Q
How much did you spend on your car?
A
I have spent about $14,000 -- when I got it in 1998 (I believe), it was in need of total restoration, and cost about $3000. For a sedan, expect to pay in this range, from restorable beater to near-perfect restored:

$1,150 $4,575 $9,550 (NADA info, not really accurate for collectors) or $3,500 - $17,000 (Old Cars Price Guide, most accurate for collectors).


Q
Do you consider your car an investment or a toy?
A
HA! Never think about a classic car as an investment -- it's a CAR that should be driven. At the same time, however, I also must say that it's the safest place to put your money lately based on appreciation compared to the rest of the economy. Hagerty Insurance keeps an eye out for me and regularly raises the replacement value of my car. Now they have it down for about $12,000 to replace in complete loss -- less than my investment, but more than they valued it a few years ago when I spent the bulk of the money. If I wreck it, the "investment" is gone. But if I keep it up, it'll only appreciate. Compare that to a new car: Our Ford Focus daily driver has lost about 30% of its used-car value since we bought it. Sigh.


Q
We have run into a brick wall when in comes to replacing the power steering lines. The rubber sections have deteriorated, and we have not been able to find a resource for new ones. The originals have tubular aluminum end sections with rubber flexible mid sections that appear to be crimped onto the aluminum ends. Might you have a source for replacements?
A
Check out the resources I linked here.

Someone must sell them. Right -- don't take those apart and re-use the ends unless you want your engine compartment filled with fluid. My high-pressure hose was in fine shape, so I didn't need to replace it, but the return hose did need replacement -- what I did there was buy special high-pressure/chemical-resistant hose, cut to length, and clamped using non-slip hose clamps (not the "screw" type). I also sealed it in place (after thoroughly cleaning the male end) with chemical-resistant, high-temp sealant. So far, that's been fine, for something like 4000 miles. But I wouldn't use that configuration for the high-pressure hose.


Q
How much steering wheel play is in your Lincoln (if you had any)? I seem to have to have a little too much play for comfort.
A
It's a big old luxury car, so you'll feel what SEEMS to be play though it might not be. When the engine is off and you're not getting power, can you still move it? If so, then you have too much play. The steering box might need to be rebuilt, or it could be any of a number of components between the wheels. Have a suspension place check it out.


Q
My suspension is really mushy so I'm planning on getting a new set of shocks. I'm wondering if I need to have the rear leaf springs re-arced and get some gas shocks. I could get coil-overs for the rear too.
A
You can check out my car before the hood scoop or the old ad I included to see how it looked before I added the coil-overs (both front and back). I got the shocks to compensate for 38 years of gravity, and that's what they do. The ride is as-stock, which is expensive to do if you go the stock route of replacing coil and leaf springs. The shock bodies themselves dampen shocks very well, by the way. I added those because natural sagging over the years is just a fact of life, as with people <g>. They made up the difference perfectly. Remember that this was a luxury car of its period -- "mushy" is pretty close to what they wanted!


Q
The old leafs do creak a little under heavy cornering, what should I do?
A
Again, that's just entropy, the greatest force of nature. Unless they're damaged (be sure to check), it's probably just that they're getting a little sloppy in their straps. I use a grease-gun to lubricate between the individual leafs, and that keeps the suspension quiet for, well, a long time.


Q
What I want to do is pull my 430 out and throw in a compatible with my transmission Ford factory engine with plenty of horsepower and upgradablility, so that I won't have a parts-searching problem ever again. (And another): Knowing that this car is almost twice as heavy as any standard vehicle, I thought of beefing the engine up some. It also has to do with the fact that I have been known to have lead foot. I wondered if there was any alternatives to engines for the beast, possibly an engine from a comparable Ford of the year or maybe even an aftermarket engine. Changing the engine for an after market would be the last resort.
A
I don't know about compatibility with the stock transmission; you'll have to ask a Lincoln/Ford wrecking yard about that. Don't use anything smaller, though -- the 460 is a good, powerful, and common engine that's easy to hot-rod and repair, and with 1960's cam and compression figures, it will haul that big boat around faster than the stock engine even without power parts. A 1970's engine will need an overhaul and power parts, but you can rod it out (if you do the work yourself) for the price of a simple rebuild on the 430. You can even buy crate motors straight from Ford, but those will run you about $4000-5000. On the other hand, they have full warranty and all that. For example, a 460 makes more power right away, but you'll end up having to do a lot of fitting work -- if you don't mind that sort of thing (custom engine mounts, re-routing electrics, possibly having to use a newer transmission because the '64 uses an older style, and then swapping out the driveshaft). There are all kinds of aftermarket parts for the 460, because it's a Ford engine still in production.

I wanted to stay stock (-ish), and went with a period-appropriate rod concept: Use the stock engine, add period-correct hop-up parts, and a period-correct scoop to let the world know what lies within. You can use the 462 or 430 interchangeably -- they're both Lincoln engines and fit the same transmission -- and the 462 puts out a bit more power. Swapping for newer engines would work, but probably cause you more pain than it's worth (that's my reasoning, anyway).

If you go with doing the old engine, you'll have to find vintage performance parts, as I did. It's a different block entirely, called the "M-E-L" for Mercury-Edsel-Lincoln, made from the late '50's to 1967 (and some '68s), where it was bored and stroked up from 430 ci to 462 ci. It's a rock-solid engine, nearly indestructible, but rebuild parts cost more than the 460. Also, using the stock engine makes the car more valuable to collectors, if that matters to you.


Q
What did you do with your Cast Iron Heavy Duty PCA tranny? Did you get a rebuild? Swap it? I think I am going to do to my Lincoln convertible what you have done to yours, mild Hot Rod.
A
I had the original transmission overhauled with all new parts, and so far it works great. Swapping would be a pain, so I stuck with the original even though it cost a bit more. A convertible mild hot-rod Lincoln would be great! I spent about $1400 on the Tri-Power setup and have used it for about 2000 miles; I also picked up both a manual and an electric choke, and spent a great deal of time getting everything tuned properly (including tuning the transmission downshift). I found it doesn't need a choke except when it's near-freezing outside -- I use a manual choke that goes to under the dash, but stock was a nasty coolant-tube thermometer affair that probably rusted out. I also have an electric choke that I decided not to use, but you'll need something or it won't start cold. I mostly don't use it at all -- just give it a few extra pumps; starts right up in any weather. Gotta love gas-guzzlin' monsters!


Q
Symptoms: Has trouble staying running. Over 25 mph after it's been driving for a while, it starts to rhump-rhump and then strong knocking so bad I could hear the engine rattle. I fixed possible vacuum leaks, including disconnecting the PCV valve for now. That didn�t do anything. Sounds severely out of tune, but only after it's been running for a while. Idles fine in park.
A
Detonation can be caused by:

  • Lean fuel mixture

  • Fuel octane too low

  • Improper ignition timing (likely)

  • Excessive milling of heads or block, which will increase compression ratio

Pre-ignition can be caused by:

  • Spark plugs too hot a heat range

  • Spark plugs not firmly seated against gasket

  • Detonation or the condition leading to it

  • Sharp edges in combustion chamber

  • Valves operating at higher than normal temperature because of excessive guide clearance or improper seal with valve seats

  • Overheating (likely -- happens only after running a while, but engine temp shows it's running normally)

  • Ignition crossfiring. Induced voltage in spark plug wires that run parallel to each other for long distances

The most likely causes are improper ignition timing and/or overheating.


Q
I need new interior. Since it seems like you have a nice one, can you tell me where you got it from, (if you bought it).
A
Boy, interiors are tough! Mine was great to start off with, because it was hardly used. But I did order the last leather covering one place had in silver-blue, because the front has a little original wear. All you can do is call around! One thing that works is to use the rear leather of the same year/color and have an upholsterer cut and sew it into the proper front shape.


Q
I got a quote for a paint job $3500 - $4000 (pre-collision). Does that sound like a decent price?
A
That sounds like how much you should expect to spend for a real paint job, if they're doing the hardware removal and re-installation, but not a "hot-rod custom" type of job. Check out their work and make sure you're happy with it first; look at things like how they re-install the name badges, too.


Q
Between the years 1963 and 1967, what Lincoln Continental model is longest?
A
They kept getting longer after the new, 1961 model, so I'd say the 1967. 1958 or 1959 was by far the biggest, by the way.


Q
Where'd you get the valve covers?
A
My valve covers are stock, sanded, and painted high-temp silver. Use good paint and high-temp clearcoat, or occasional water will stain the paint. If that doesn't bother you, just keep polishing with clean, white cloths. Eventually you'll need to repaint, but it's a simple task to pull them and re-spray. Gives you a chance to check your valvetrain clearance.


Q
Are you in the USAF? (I see the base sticker in one shot)
A
No; I left the Air Force sticker on the bumper because I think it's a cool part of its history: formerly owned by a USAF officer and driven to base for many years before going into storage in another man's collection. I think we should try to maintain as much of our machines' history as we can!


Q
Does your Lincoln have a keyed lock for the trunk, visible on the outside? The one i have now does, but I've seen in some manuals the reference to a vacuum release inside the glove box for the trunk. Was this an option for the car?
A
Yup, the remote was an option. Make sure the lines are in good shape or you'll never get in!


Q
On the top of my engine, toward the back in the middle-end of the intake manifold, is a solid metal square screwed into it. It has a hole on one side, might be threaded but can't tell. What is this? On my 430 it's been replaced by a "T" fitting and what appears to be water hoses are attached to it. Just wondering what it is and it's purpose so I can tell if it needs to be replaced. The opening (the hole) is a bit mangled around the edges - flanged a bit.
A
That's part of your heater hose. If you want heat, you want that to be in good shape.


Q
I bought a 462 which looks as if it's been sitting for a good long time. What do I need to do?
A
I wouldn't worry too much about the looks of the engine; just dump out all the oil, pop off the front cover to check if the timing gears are in good shape (replace the timing set if it's plastic! that was my problem), and swap out all the easy gaskets now while it's hanging from the engine crane (valve cover gaskets, oil pan, front cover, manifold valley pan gasket). With those parts off, check your valve adjustment (follow the manual) and look for bad stuff floating around, and also scrape out all the goop in there. If you see burn marks around the bearing surfaces on the bottom end, it's time to rebuild. Chunks of metal might suggest the same ;-) Me, I'd just overhaul the thing in matter of course, replacing rings, bearings, valves, and gaskets all around, but that gets pricey. Just remember that doing it now is cheaper and easier than later... all depends on how good of shape the engine is in, and you can't know that until it's running.

Then you'll be able to clean and paint those tin parts before putting 'em back on, as well as clean and paint the block, heads, and intake manifold (make sure to CAREFULLY mask and tape the open stuff). Don't paint the exhaust manifolds, but if there's black soot around the exhaust ports, remove them CAREFULLY (they crack easily) and replace the gaskets there, too; if you do this, don't paint the engine until you've pulled the manifolds, too.

I'd replace the expendable gaskets, anyhow, if it's looking oily or as if it's been sitting around. Those are relatively cheap insurance against leaks, and you'll want to adjust valves and check the gears, anyhow.

Don't paint the exhaust manifolds because they get REALLY hot. I used high-temp paint on my block and heads, and the paint is peeling around the exhaust ports. Imagine how hot the non-cooled manifolds get! Peeling is more ugly than no paint. Alternatively, you could have them ceramic coated or something, if you have cash burning a hole in your pockets ;-)

You can remount the plate easily in the same orientation by looking for the little notch in the crank (it'll leave its shape in the plate). Don't think the TC is balanced with the engine.

It will look much better, won't leak, and will be internally tuned up. A bit of work here will go a long way!


Q
Can you explain the difference between foot pounds and inch pounds when related to torque wrenches?
A
Inch pounds are as they seem -- 1/12 of a foot-pound. Don't mix 'em up or you'll break tiny bolts and barely budge big ones!


Q
I'd love to pick up a Continental like yours but I have to do the marriage/house thing first. How did you get started?
A
Some day, you'll have to get that Continental -- I put it off for a long time for no good reason; once I realized that you can take as long as needed to restore a car, it no longer seemed an insurmountable project. And it stayed fun, too! But remember the key mantra: "Appreciate the wife." She's the one who has to look at parts and a huge chunk of immobile iron for years. If you have an understanding husband/wife, you're set!


Q
By using a manifold like you used, would I need to add the scoop? I want to keep my Lincoln looking completely original on first glance. How much do you think it would be for the complete setup with carbs and all? Would the gas mileage be quite a bit worse with a tri-power system? I don't really care because I won't be driving the car that often and it's already horrible, I'm just curious. Do you know about how much it would be for that cam? Do you have contact info for Charlie?
A
Cool. Yes, it should fit under the hood -- it did when it was a stock item! You'll need to use a low-rise air cleaner setup, though, not a tall one like I used. I went with the Edelbrock under Charlie's advice (cheaper carbs), but ended up spending more by having to cut and work the hood. Which worked out well, at least, so I'm happy, but it doesn't sound like you'd be ;-)

His company is: http://www.vintagespeed.com and his name is Charlie Price (should have an email link and phone # there). He's a good guy (though he seems to have misplaced my stock M-E-L manifold in his shop...).

He also told me he could grind a hot cam: "A regrind and lifters is $255.00." That, combined with three carbs, oughta be good for a whole lotta power (and fuel consumption!). Incidentally, by using the stock cam and driving on the center carb, I actually increased my fuel economy! Of course, when I open the outer carbs, that all changes....


Q
These old Lincolns (and others of the same era) were designed to run leaded fuel. What can be done now to adapt them for the unleaded fuel that we have today? Am I hurting the engine by using unleaded fuel as it is? What have you done with yours if anything?
A
You'll either need to use a fuel additive that lubricates the valve stems or else have a head job that hardens the seats in prep for unleaded gas. Otherwise, you'll eventually wear out the valve-stem guides and/or drop a seat; at the minimum, you'll lose valve seal. Not good! Lead substitutes work great, but unless you drive a lot, the cheap stuff gunks up the fuel system. By the way, unless you live in Texas, you can't get regular anymore -- premium is still unleaded. And, yes, you'll want to use the high-octane stuff for a big high-compression engine.

"Fuel additive" isn't enough -- use something labeled "lead substitute." Otherwise, lack of fuel lubrication in old engines will wear out your valve seats and eventually lead to the valves not fully seating or seating badly -- ruining your engine's smoothness. Anyway, use lead substitute and premium. Premium because you need the octane for the high compression (to avoid knocking and blowing holes in the pistons).


Q
How do I tell if motor mounts are bad?
A
Just replace the motor mounts, because they'll probably need it. Also, if the transmission hasn't been overhauled, seriously consider replacing all such mounts. It's much better than having to pull everything again later...


Q
I'm thinking of a disc brake conversion -- what do you think?
A
You only need those if you do a lot of stopping. The stock drums are HUGE and powerful, until they overheat.


Q
Can I find most general replacement items such as bolts, hoses, clamps, switches, regulators, etc. at my local auto parts store?
A
Yup. Your best bet for bolts, springs, etc., though, is the local hardware store. Get stainless parts whenever you can. For electrical parts, go with the nicest stuff the local guys carry.


Q
The intake (pardon my na�vet�) is on the top of the block that the carb bolts to, correct? The part you replaced with the Tri-Power setup, right? Seems like since it's on top it wouldn't be that difficult to do with the motor in.
A
Right. Trust me, it's easier with the engine out! With three carbs and the linkage (even though it's aluminum), the manifold is heavy. But the stock unit (all iron) is MASSIVE. You'll need to be careful not to drop it on your fender! I spent about $1400 on my tri-power setup (see the bare manifold here). Keep in mind that a fully-built original tri-power for one of these sells for between $3500 and $5000, so shop around!


Q
Am I in trouble if, when I removed the torque converter, I forgot to mark the position of the drive plate on the crankshaft?
A
You can remount the plate easily in the same orientation by looking for the little notch in the crank (it'll leave its shape in the plate). Don't think the torque converter is balanced with the engine.


Q
Your paint job looks great! What type of paint job did they do? High end or middle of the road, was it a one-stage or a base plus a clear coat?
A
It's urethane prep base + single clear, middle of the road ($1500 job as opposed to $5000). It's warranted for 5 years, which was good enough for me! I didn't want to have to cry if it got scratched, but wanted it to be a beauty anyway. I recommend this level of paint -- not cheap, but not so expensive that you'll never drive your car. I have some minor paint-bumps and fish-eyes, but I also didn't cry when I got my first paint-chips above the grill from road debris!


Q
How did you match the original color?
A
To get the correct color, check eBay for paint chip samples; I bought the one for 1964 (original painter's sheet) and was able to get the car repainted exactly in the original color.


Q
How do you maintain your paint?
A
I use clear nail polish (appreciate the wife!) to immediately cover any chips so water/oxygen never reaches the bare metal. Wash off anything that could oxidize the paint right away.


Q
What parts related to the engine are fairly generic? Like the radiator... does that have to be NOS or used off another Lincoln, or can I grab one at the auto parts place?
A
After 1967, the Continental went to a Ford drivetrain, so you'll have to stick with 1967-back (to 1962?) parts. Some body parts changed more, so those aren't very interchangeable, but things like electronics and such should be the same all the way through the 70's (a '68 donated seat electronics on mine).


Q
On your car are all of the lines metal or is there any rubber? I haven't diagnosed exactly where the leak was, what I do know is it was on the driver side very close to the inner wheel area a stream of fluid was found there when I moved the car.
A
Almost certainly it's the rubber line between the body and the wheel. It has to be rubber to flex while you steer and hit bumps, and rubber goes bad. If one is bad, you can bet the others will go bad soon.


Q
How do you clear the brake lines?
A
For clearing brake lines, just have a BIG bottle of brake fluid on hand, and have a friend pump the brake pedal while you pump the fluid into another half-empty bottle of fluid (using a brake bleeding tool). Make sure the reservoir doesn't get empty or you'll have to start again!


Q
Was there a hood ornament on this car?
A
I had to remove the hood ornament because it just looked too fussy with the scoop. I kept it, though, and only filled the hole with fiberglas so it can be re-mounted if I wish.


Q
I got a car that sat for a long time, and it idles rough and causes the car to shake like an old truck. Has a moderate amount of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. I took her around the block and the biggest engine I ever seen has no power at all. If I floor it or just press it she goes about the same speed -- 30-40 mph -- and creeps up hills? What is your diagnosis?
A
Could be a lot of things. If you're getting a bunch of white smoke, I'd say the head gaskets are gone. Before you run it any more, change the oil, radiator fluid, plugs, points, rotor, and cap (and wires if they look cracked and stuff), then give the carb an overhaul kit (be very careful to keep track of where all the tiny parts go). Get a timing light on the engine to make sure it isn't way off on timing, and make sure the vacuum-advance is properly hooked up from carb to distributor (the rubber hose might be bad, too). Oh, if your distributor has an oil hole (with a little flip-open cap), drop a little oil in there. If it still doesn't run right, the next step is head gaskets. They're cheap, but a lot of work. You'll need to get an entire top-end gasket set, which isn't bad, anyway, because everything leaks eventually.

If you have more than 80,000 miles on a 1960's engine, almost certainly the rings are worn. And if you're doing that, you might as well replace bearings, rings, gaskets, lifters, seals, timing gears (note what happened to me!), and get a valve job -- getting hardened seats is nice so you can use unleaded gas without additives. All this is a lot of work, but not a lot of money if you do it yourself.

By the way, Lincoln engines (pre-460, which is a Ford engine) were factory-balanced, as smooth as possible. If it shakes, something's wrong!


Q
When I rev the engine from the carb it stops shaking and runs very smoothly. Do you think I should adjust the air mix screws in the front bottom of the carb to see what that does. I am going to adjust the timing this weekend, by loosing the distributor and turning it method. I hope that may help a little as well. I am going to replace the head, exhaust, intake, valve cover gaskets. And try to see if that solves my problems. Hopefully that is what the problem is. The mileage states 35,000, and I wonder if that is accurate.
A
The reason it runs smoothly while in place is that the engine isn't moving the entire car -- that's a big load if there are any weaknesses. I'm betting that it's 135,000 miles, though it could only be 35k -- these cars were pretty much used on special occasions. But just sitting will kill an engine, too. Gaskets and seals will shrink and crack, and old oil will damage the plastic stock gears and also the metal internals (turns acidic with water and air).


Q
The interior and other components are in great shape, except the leather cracked like and old clay. How do I restore it?
A
Use some good leather conditioner/restorer! Don't sit on dried-out leather or it will crack.


Q
Rings wouldn't make it lose as much power as head gaskets, would they?
A
Sure, rings will have every bit as much effect, and they are a bigger deal to replace: you'll have to pull out the engine, disassemble it, and reinstall. You can do a simple compression check to see if there's a lot of blow-by; buy a spark-plug-hole compression tester at a local parts store, turn the engine over one cylinder, slowly (make sure it won't spark by pulling the distributor and coil leads!), and comparing to the manual's recommendations.


Q
So I disconnect the all the plugs or one at a time? What do I do then, turn the fan?
A
One at a time, making SURE the car can't start. You can turn it over via the fan if that works (still disconnect the ignition), but it's a big engine! The best way is to use a big wrench (I think 1-1/4" ?) to turn the crank from the front, inside the bottom pulley. If the car hasn't run for a long time, be sure to drip a little light oil into the cylinder through the spark-plug hole.

General Tips

When the engine is out is definitely the time to clean up the engine compartment; too big an engine to do it after. I spent days and days doing mine: cleaning with a brush (and GoJo, actually!), then cleaning with rags and soapy water, then with sandpaper to remove rust, then rust treatment, then a bit of fiberglas to make the battery tray solid again (leakage), and so on, then I primed and painted it. Before you pull the 430, mark everything, then pull the hoses and bolts one at a time and replace them with new.


The manual has some good pictures of how the hoses and wires should run, but I rerouted some things, anyway, and used high-heat conduit to run the wires along the engine after wrapping them again with fresh electrician's tape. Then I raised some of the wires and hoses with rubber-lined clamps to keep them away from the heat. Trust your judgment and replace everything that looks a little bad or worn now - way easier than later.

Things like the switches and regulator and such are easier to replace with the engine out, all the hoses, bolts, screws, etc. Also the front shocks, with less weight on them. All the suspension is easier to work on with the engine out. Oh, and pull the radiator and heater core now and have 'em pressure-tested and overhauled if needed. Get yourself a heavy-duty transmission cooler to take some heat out of the radiator and help cool the transmission better. Brake lines and master cylinder are much easier to get at with the engine pulled.

If you're going to swap major components (like the intake), again it's easier to do with the engine on a stand than in the compartment. Test all the electricals and underhood mechanicals now, then with the engine out you can replace, overhaul, or swap those that aren't perfect. Be careful removing the hood -- have a friend help or you could bend the mounts or flanges.

Basically, leave the engine out for longer than you think you need to while you do everything you can. It's so big and the compartment is so small (relatively) that you'll be more efficient this way.

When working in the engine compartment, make sure you lay down heavy padding on the fenders before doing engine work after re-installation! You'll want to go over an old carb, I bet, to make sure it's working properly. Make sure the vacuum-advance hose for the distributor is in good shape before you try to start it!

Strip and paint the engine, too, by the way! Be careful if you pull the exhaust manifolds, because they tend to crack. If you're not pulling it open (to replace gaskets or something), just mask off the exhaust manifolds when you strip and paint the rest of the engine.

More Tips

Here are some great tips from Baker's Auto.

BRAKES: If your master cylinder reservoir is constantly low on fluid, yet no leaks are evident outside the car, you may be seeping fluid out of the back of the master into the brake booster. To check this, simply remove the two bolts that attach the master cylinder to the booster (you do notneed to disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder), pull the master forward and wipe your finger around the back. If it comes away wet, you have found the problem. NOTE: Overzealous bench bleeding can cause this. When bench bleeding the master cylinder, make sure that you actuate the piston only a short distance. If you attempt to bottom the piston within the master cylinder bore, you will dislodge the internal seal.

STEERING: You will find a rather unusual innovation on Lincolns built after 1963. In order to isolate the driver from road vibrations and noise, the factory incorporated three steering gearbox insulators between the box and the frame of the car. (They do for the gearbox what motor mounts do for the motor.) If you feel that your steering is loose, and you have checked all the usual suspects, give these a look-see. You can determine if they are bad simply by having someone turn the steering wheel as you peer into the engine room. If the box pulls away from the frame excessively, you have found your problem (remember that these are made of rubber so some movement is expected). NOTE: When the insulators become extremely loose, the steering shaft can rub against the shift tube, physically moving the shift lever as the wheel is turning. Don't allow yourself to get in this dangerous situation. Rebuilt steering box insulators are only $35 each exchange.

ENGINE: Lincolns are notorious for exhaust manifold leaks, especially passenger's side. Most often this will manifest itself as a slight ticking sound, especially when the engine is cold (don't confuse this with a simple loose spark plug). Look for telltale signs of soot or burning. If you have a small leak, do not ignore it for too long. A prudent repair will avoid the extra labor and expense of having to remove the head to resurface an area that is eroded by the leaking exhaust gas. We have new, replacement, passenger's side, made even stronger than factory, for only $345 each, including gasket.

CONVERTIBLE: 61-63 Lincolns use brake fluid in the convertible top hydraulic system. 64-67 systems use automatic transmission fluid. It is entirely legal and moral (not to mention less messy) to use transmission fluid in the 61-63. However, in order to do so you must completely clean and flush the old brake fuild from the system. You never want to mix the two fluids or you will have a thick, jelly-like, mess that the pump cannot handle. Also, don't even think of using silicone brake fluid or hydraulic oil. One more important item: always leave 1 to 1.5 inches of space between the fluid level and the filler opening to allow for fluid expansion.

WINDOW: I receive many requests for parts to cure windows that have become slow and unreliable. Before buying that new window motor that you think will fix the problem, put aside a day to "field strip" the complete assembly. Most slow windows are the result of original factory grease having become dried out and sticky. In effect, doing exactly the opposite of what grease is intended to do. While you are in the door, check that all of the rollers and pivots are cleaned and properly aligned. These steps usually return the speed you are looking for.

HEAT/AC: Starting in 1966 Lincoln experimented with a few variations of Automatic Temperature Control. The system allows the driver to choose a comfortable temperature and the car will do what is necessary to make this happen. To accomplish this, the engineers use a string of temperature sensitive resistors to feed information to the Master Control Unit (the brain). The 69-71 Mark III has one of these ambient air sensors mounted on the recirculating door in the lower right hand kickpanel. Because this door moves, the wires attached to the sensor are often flexing and can break. If your system suddenly stops responding and only puts heat on the floor, check here first.

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